A Steep Early Morning Climb

Leaving Meglisalp to head over to the next valley means a brisk after-breakfast climb. So, first fortify yourself with the fantastic breakfast buffet. Be sure to sample their own delicious alp cheese.



After your early morning climb, you'll come to a trail leading across an old scree slope. This barren section is a wonderfully restful hike in the alpine peace and quiet. After this, the rest of the day is hiking downhill as you slowly leave the Alpstein behind.



Coming out into the gentle meadows around Fallensee, wander on to the inviting terrace or stuebi of Plattenboedeli.

Up To A Cozy Alp

Once you leave Berghaus Forelle, you enter a cool forest and start zig-zagging up the hill. You soon rise high above the Seealpsee, and get a great view of the valley below (That's Forelle on the small spit of land sticking out into the lake).

Next, you end up on a narrow trail that passes under the cliff above. Only slightly rocky, this is a great uphill climb - with handholds anywhere that they are required.


A final climb and you come out onto the hanging valley that holds Meglisalp. The farm and mountain inn sit nestled in amongst the mountains in a very picturesque setting. There's even a pretty little alp chapel to explore.

Behind the cluster of buildings, you'll find the rocks alive with marmots. Go for a quiet afternoon walk and keep your eyes peeled for these shy creatures.



The view from the edge at Meglisalp is breathtaking. Here's a look back at the Seealpsee and the steep cliffs that make up the Alpstein.



Another great reason to spend a night at Meglisalp are the beautiful old-fashioned rooms. Pine paneled walls, old washstands, and soft lighting make this a very romantic inn. And, the restaurant is outstanding - with great meals being served and lots of camaraderie.

Down To The Seealpsee

The first hour after leaving Mesmer is a continual scramble down a rather rocky trail, but it soon levels out into a comfortable meadow leading to the beautiful Seealpsee (Lake Alplake). Just in time for a morning cuppa and some comestibles.


Sitting at the other end of the Seealpsee, the Berghaus Forelle gives you a great look back at where you came from. That steep cut towards the right is the path up to Mesmer. After tea, you'll be heading off along the left side of the Seealpsee and up, up, up to Meglisalp.


Here, you can see how Meglisalp sits far above the Seealpsee in a hanging valley. You'll be joining that climb that you can see zig-zagging up on the left side of the lake.

A Quiet Alp And Mountain Inn

After following along below the ridge, and scrambling up through a few cuts, you see the welcoming sight of Mesmer below you. A small alp (summer farm) and mountain inn run by the Mesmer family.

As with many of the mountain inns (Berghaus) in Switzerland, Mesmer is a working alp. Alps are situated amongst the high alpine meadows and allow the cows, goats, and sheep to graze the high meadows and produce rich milk for alp cheeses. After the Swiss mountains were "discovered" by British mountaineers, these alps also started catering to hikers and mountain climbers - giving us great places to overnight and enjoy hearty mountain meals.

Comfortable rooms and good, hearty mountain fare await you. While enjoying an alp dish like bratwurst smothered in onion gravy, and sipping a large glass of red wine, you see the beautiful sky as night falls on the mountains. Be sure to go for a postprandial stroll in the quiet of evening.

The next morning, large bowls of Milchkaffee (milk coffee) and a hearty breakfast will get you ready for the rocky trail down to Seealpsee.

It's A Long Way To The Bottom

After leaving Schaefler, you walk around the corner and are greeted by a large sign in German "Gefaehrlich!" It warns that the stretch of trail you are about to embark on is dangerous and should not be attempted in anything other than good hiking gear. Of course, I can't see how anybody in high heels would have ever made it this far ;-)

Around the corner, you discover that the sign was not exaggerating. If long drops make you quesy, this part of the route will be a trifle difficult. A narrow trail cut into the rock is made passable by a steel cable handrail. Funny how white your knuckles can get if you look over that edge.


Soon, you cross over to the other side - where the dropoff is less steep (there are no gentle grades on this leg of your hike). In the photo above, you can see the sheer drop on one side of the ridge, and the steep slope that you traverse for the next hour or two as you head to the welcoming inn at Mesmer.

A Thick And Tasty Gerschtensuppe

After slogging up that long hill, the reward is imminent as you step onto a sun terrace with a fantastic view of the Appenzell. My recommendation: The Gerschtensuppe - a wonderful, hearty soup of barley, vegetables, and meat. My favourite soup anytime I'm hiking the Swiss Alps, the one at Schaefler Huette ranks amongst the best I have ever tasted - and I grew up in Switzerland.


Here's a preview of the view you'll enjoy - although a photo can never do justice to actually being there.

Lunch And Great View At Schaefler Huette

Upon leaving Aescher, you go back up through the Wildkirchli cavern and back to the cable car station. Leaving the station, you soon see your destination - Schaefler Huette - sitting high up on a peak. Since it only takes less than 2 hours to get there, your first thought is that this distant building can't be your lunch stop.

After an easy hike along the ridge edge, you get to Chlus - which is a good spot to take a rest and brace yourself for the uphill slog. There's Schaefler, far up above you. We forced ourselves to go the ascent with no rest stops - that got the bellows pumping :-)

Through An Old Bear Cave And Along A Narrow Ledge

To get to Aescher, you drop down from the top station of the Ebenalp cable car and scramble down a slippery trail through the Wildkirchli Hoelle (Wild Church Cave) and onto a narrow ledge. The cave can be seen on the right in the picture above - along with a small chapel - and the trail leads along the rock face towards Aescher (just around the corner on the left). A small covered bridge (tan structure on the left) lets you get across the most treacherous part of the trail.

Not to worry! A stout handrail make this a very safe walk - just a bit giddy for those with fear of straight dropoffs. Well worth it once you get to Aescher.

The Wildkirchli cave itself once housed cave bears (about 90,000 years ago) and you can imagine the huge lumbering beasts in this large cavern. Later, it was inhabited by hermits and became a chapel in the wilderness.

A brief detour on your destination up into the Alpstein, the Wildkirchli Cave and Berggasthaus Aescher are well worth an hour of your morning.

Starting A Trek Of The Alpstein

Although Switzerland is a picturesque country no matter where you go, the Appenzell will astound you with its beauty. Well worth spending some time in the valley below, looking at all the painted houses, but first, let's grab a cable car from Wasserauen and take the ride high up to Ebenalp.

There, you must take the quick detour for a morning coffee at the cliff-hugging Aescher restaurant. Sitting on it's sun terrace under the looming cliffs is a great way to start a day of hiking, and the scramble through the Wildkirchli Cave is an interesting way to approach any restaurant.